Malabar Chicken Biryani is not just a dish, it’s an experience. Hailing from the lush, coastal region of Kerala in South India, this biryani is a world apart from its North Indian counterparts. It is renowned for its unique, delicate aroma, subtle yet complex flavors, and a distinctive white color (or very light yellow), unlike the rich, saffron- and turmeric-hued biryanis of the north.

The magic of Malabar Biryani lies in its restraint and the use of specific local ingredients. It’s less about fiery heat and more about the fragrant symphony of spices like fennel, star anise, and cardamom, combined with the tanginess of yogurt and lemon, and the richness of coconut oil and cashews.

Origin & Background

The origin of Malabar Biryani is deeply intertwined with the history of the Malabar Coast (now part of Kerala). This region was a central hub on the ancient spice trade route, attracting Arab merchants for centuries.

• Arab Influence: The recipe is believed to have been heavily influenced by Arab and Persian traders, particularly from Yemen. The use of mild, fragrant spices, the “Dum” (slow-cooking) method, and the preference for small-grain, aromatic rice (like Kaima or Jeerakasala) are all culinary legacies of this trade.
• A Mappila Specialty: This biryani is a signature dish of the Mappila (or Malabar Muslim) community, whose cuisine is a beautiful fusion of traditional Kerala ingredients and Arab cooking techniques.
• “Kozhi” Biryani: In the local language, it is often simply called “Kozhi Biryani” (Chicken Biryani). The key differentiator is the absence of tomatoes and turmeric, which are staples in many other biryani versions. The color comes primarily from fried onions (birista), saffron, and sometimes a tiny amount of turmeric, but the goal is a light, elegant appearance.

Malabar Chicken Biryani Recipe

This recipe captures the essence of the traditional method. The use of small-grain rice and coconut oil is non-negotiable for an authentic taste.

Yield: 4-5 servings
Prep time: 30 minutes (plus marination time)
Cook time: 1 hour

Ingredients:

For the Chicken Marination:

• 500g chicken, on the bone, cut into pieces
• 1 cup thick yogurt
• 2 tbsp lemon juice
• 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
• 2-3 green chilies, slit
• 1 tsp black pepper powder
• 1 tsp garam masala powder
• 1½ tsp salt (or to taste)
• A handful of mint leaves, chopped
• A handful of cilantro, chopped

For the Rice:

• 2.5 cups small-grain rice (Jeerakasala, Kaima, or Basmati can be a substitute)
• 4-5 cups water
• 2-3 green cardamom pods
• 2-3 cloves
• 1 small cinnamon stick (1-inch)
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 star anise
• 1 tsp salt

For the Biryani Gravy/Layering:

• 3 large onions, thinly sliced
• 4 tbsp coconut oil (or ghee)
• ½ cup cashew nuts
• ½ cup raisins
• 1 large onion, thinly sliced (for frying)
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
• 2-3 green cardamom pods
• 1 small cinnamon stick
• 2-3 cloves
• 1 star anise
• A pinch of saffron strands, soaked in 2 tbsp warm milk
• Extra mint and cilantro for layering

Method:

Step 1: Marinate the Chicken

1. In a large bowl, combine the chicken with all the marinade ingredients: yogurt, lemon juice, ginger-garlic paste, green chilies, pepper powder, garam masala, salt, mint, and cilantro.
2. Mix well, ensuring the chicken is thoroughly coated. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or ideally overnight for the best flavor.

Step 2: Prepare the Fried Garnishes

1. Heat 2 tbsp of coconut oil in a pan. Fry the sliced onion for the birista until deep golden brown and crisp. Remove and drain on paper towels.
2. In the same oil, lightly fry the cashews until golden and the raisins until they plump up. Set aside.

Step 3: Cook the Rice

1. Wash the rice until the water runs clear. Soak it for 20 minutes.
2. In a large pot, bring 4-5 cups of water to a rolling boil. Add the whole spices (cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaf, star anise) and salt.
3. Drain the soaked rice and add it to the boiling water. Cook until the rice is 70% cooked (it should still have a firm bite in the center).
4. Drain the rice completely in a colander and set it aside.

Step 4: Prepare the Chicken Gravy

1. In a heavy-bottomed pot or handi (where you will layer the biryani), heat the remaining 2 tbsp of coconut oil.
2. Add the whole spices for the gravy (fennel seeds, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, star anise). Sauté for 30 seconds until fragrant.
3. Add the marinated chicken along with all the marinade. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for 15-20 minutes until the chicken is almost cooked through and the gravy has thickened. The gravy should be moist but not runny.
4. Turn off the heat. Sprinkle half of the fried onions, cashews, and raisins over the chicken.

Step 5: Layering (Takhting) the Biryani

1. Gently spread the partially cooked rice over the chicken layer to form an even top.
2. Drizzle the saffron-infused milk evenly over the rice.
3. Sprinkle the remaining fried onions, cashews, raisins, and some fresh mint and cilantro leaves.

Step 6: The Dum (Slow-Cooking)

1. Seal the pot tightly with aluminum foil and then place the lid on top. This traps all the steam and aroma.
2. Cook on the lowest possible heat for 20-25 minutes. Alternatively, you can place a tawa (griddle) under the pot to diffuse the heat and prevent burning.
3. After 25 minutes, turn off the heat and let the biryani rest, still sealed, for another 15 minutes. DO NOT PEEK during the dum process.

Step 7: Serving

1. Open the lid and foil. Gently fluff the biryani from the side with a fork, mixing the layers slightly.
2. Serve hot with a simple onion raita, pachadi (Kerala-style coconut raita), or a boiled egg.

Enjoy the taste of the Malabar Coast!